A friend of mine recently bought an Arduino Uno after I mentioned it in a conversation. It’s much the same as a PICAXE but it is designed to be much easier to program (even though the PIXAXE was programmed in BASIC which wasn’t really so basic). I decided it would be fun to try it as well because it has something called an Ethernet Shield (a shield is just an expansion or add-on board).

The Ethernet Shield allows you to connect it to the Internet. This allows you to do so much more with it, and that’s where I got the idea for basic home automation. My first idea was to control a light to begin with and work my way up from there. I’d like to make a remote reset system for my home server set up. I’d like to make it so I can reset the server remotely should it be required.

This got me thinking of other ideas as well such as a weather display (I’ve seen a few of these around) or a server monitor for my server in France and at home. I’ll probably think of even more ideas along the way as well as there are so many “shields” you can get for the Arduino, including GPS, GSM (mobile phone), LCD screens and more.

Source: Arduino.cc

I’ll be updating the blog with my progress once I receive my Arduino and Ethernet Shield, and I will probably post code that I use as well. Hopefully it won’t take too long to get used to as it looks much like PHP code that I’m familiar with.

Here is the final circuit I used as a basis. Some of the components have been subsituted:-
- 220uH substiuted for 200uH (best I could find for 1A output)
- 100uF substiuted for 330uH (what I had to hand)
- 0.1uF left out

Here are the 4 separated circuits on a single board:

The heatsink at 85% load (850mA) gets hot but not hot enough to burn you when you touch it. This is much more efficient than the LM7805 which got too hot to touch (it actually melted my breadboard).

All that remains is to add some output connector blocks and the board is complete. I can then move onto the smaller board which will house the voltage divider. This will be mounded behind the switch for each of the USB ports.

More to come.

So, the Blackberry was a bad idea, I admit. It was a nice phone but the software was lacking in too many areas (mainly the Java side of it). If RIM bring the Blackberry to Android standards then I’d happily go back.

So anyway I thought it was about time I got myself a new phone. I was definitely after another Android because they’re just so powerful and the apps you want actually exist (and for free too) unlike on Blackberry. I began shopping around quite a while ago but I could never quite find what I wanted for the right price. I didn’t want to spend any more than £300 because I just don’t feel the likes of the iPhone 4S is worth £500 (more if you get more memory). £300 was my set limit, no matter how tempting the iPhone was.

I set myself the challenge of price, it had to be Android and it had to be capable of running Cyanogen Mod (stock ROM’s are awful on most phones). So after much browsing and research, the LG Optimus 2X was my final choice. I wanted the Samsung Galaxy S2 but it’s price tag of £480 put it straight off the list. The LG Optimus 2X however has similar specifications but only cost £269 from Amazon (the cheapest I could find it). What’s more it runs Cyanogen too.

Source: TechRadar

Specs

This phone has some impressive specs packed into such a small area. Lets have a look:

Dual Core 1 GHz Cortex-A9
Nvidia Tegra 2 AP20H Chipset
ULP GeForce GPU
512MB RAM
8GB Internal Storage, up to 32GB more can be added with a micro SD card
480×800 IPS LCD Capacitive Touch Screen
Soft Touch Capacitive Buttons
8MP Main Camera (1080p Video Capable @ 24fps, 720p @ 30fps)
1.3MP Front Camera
LED Flash
GPS
1500mAh Battery

See more specs here >
See TechRadar’s Review >

As you can see, it’s a very powerful device. The 2X was the first dual core phone ever produced, and along with the Nvidia Tegra chipset it makes for a very powerful combination.

512MB RAM is pretty standard for a high end Android smart phone, so nothing special about that. The internal 8GB of memory is double that of most other smart phones, but this can be upgraded with 32GB more with the micro SD card slot. And again with the screen this is a standard size for high end smart phones. I was disappointed to see no OLED screen with this but for the price I’m not going to complain much.

The camera is an 8MP 1080p video capable sensor which I have to say performs pretty well. The focus speed is immense at under 1 second, often quicker. 1080p video doesn’t appear to stutter during my tests but the quality is a little short of that I would expect from a camera designed to do 1080p. It’s a little grainy and lacks definition but certainly does well enough for your average amateur video recording. I’d imagine 720p would look a little sharper but I’ve not tested this as of yet. The LED flash is a little dull, my Blackberry was at least twice the brightness but the quality of the photo makes up for this when lighting is sufficient.

The 1.3MP front camera is very poor. If you’ve ever seen a poor webcam in low light you’ll understand what I mean, that’s how bad it is. There is no lighting on the front either so for low lit video calls it would be useless. Since I won’t be using it for video calls though I’m not fussed, it’s just an “extra”.

I’ve not tried the GPS yet but as a standard function of most modern smart phones I imagine it would perform just as it would in any other device. The only measure you can use for this is its ability to get a GPS lock quickly, but as I say, it’s not been tested yet. Perhaps I’ll write another post once I’ve used it for the first time.

The battery is around the same size as your typical Android device. At 1500mAh it doesn’t pack much power but it’s enough to keep the device alive for around 12 hours of average use. With careful management you could probably get 48 hours out of it. As a light to medium user myself I’m currently trying my hand at some power saving apps that turn off data when it’s not needed, periodically turning it on for email checks etc. I’ll report back on how that gets on once I have the results. I want it to reach the blackberry battery life which was 2-3 days if barely used. If it can do that, I’ll be happy (even if it does need an app to achieve it).

I have an extended life 3500mAh battery on order. While this sounds good, it won’t fit the phone without a replacement back plate for it, as the battery is twice the thickness of the standard battery. However this may turn out to be a sound trade off for decent battery life. We’ll see once it arrives.

Photos

I scanned my device with my scanner so you can get a nice in-focus and close up view of the phone.
Click to enlarge

Cyanogen Mod

Ahh Cyanogen, what would Android phones be without you… I’ll tell you… Underused! Cyanogen unleashes the power of your device much more than a stock ROM would. It also adds more features, optimises for your device and gives an overall more pleasant experience… If you get a stable ROM that is! The only problem with Cyanogen Mod is that it’s developed by volunteers. It’s not their day job, it’s something they do for the Cyanogen community. However despite that, updates are frequent and you get a lot of help with your device on their forums.

One thing I will say about Cyanogen though is that is it incredibly difficult to install if you don’t have the capability of doing some research yourself. Although Cyanogen supply instructions, they don’t always work. In my case they didn’t work when it came to using the ADB commands on the Android SDK. However some Googling later and I found the answers I needed and I was on my way to installing it.

I began with the stable build for my phone, which worked for the most part but the nightly builds were much more up to date so I gave one of those a try. It seems a lot more stable with the latest nightly than with the supposed “stable” version. It fixed a lot of bugs in the operating system that are part of the simple operation of the phone, so I was happy about that.

Verdict… Am I happy?

Yes, definitely. I finally have a phone that can do what I want it to do, even if it’s a little buggy at times (come on, it comes with the technology, nothing is perfect!). I can almost use it like a regular PC. I can get my e-mail, browse the web, remote desktop into my server, edit documents, watch videos… you name it. Admittedly it’s much better on a PC but for a phone it’s a great feat.

I’ve only had it a week so we’ll see how it all goes, and I’ll try to post back on the battery life savings I am attempting to get.

What is “unlimited” when it comes to broadband?

This is a rant that has been going on for some time now and not just by me. You can see it all over broadband support forums, both static and mobile.

Before we begin, lets just outline the definition of “unlimited”:

Now that we know what it really means, lets outline what ISP’s think it means.

You will have found it hard to escape the small print and the all common use of “up to” in broadband advertisements. ISP’s think they can get away with selling a product as “unlimited” when really it’s just such a high limit that 99% of it’s users will probably never hit it. However as broadband becomes a more widely and higher used commodity those limits are being reached by more and more people.

Mobile Broadband

A common example would be from a mobile phone provider who offers a tariff with “unlimited data”. If you look at the small print there will commonly be something to the tune of “Fair usage policy applies” or “Fair usage of 3GB”. So on one hand they offer it as “unlimited” and the other it’s really 3GB. Now to me that’s fraudulent advertisement as they’re saying two completely different things. However it doesn’t matter as it’s “in the small print” and as long as it exists there Ofcom will do nothing about it. That’s the part of this that really annoys me. To top it off, if you go over that allowance they have the cheek to charge you £3/MB for the data when in reality the cost for that 1MB of data is not even 1 pence. It’s just a money making scam and it has to be stopped.

Regular Broadband

Another example comes from your regular broadband at home. They again sell it as “unlimited downloads” but then in the small print it says “fair usage applies” or, and this is where it’s a bit different, “we may manage your line if your download usage adversely affects others”. The difference here is that there is no given limit on how much you can use, but rather they tell you “if we feel you’re using too much we’ll slow you down”. Again that annoys me and I don’t think it should be allowed.

Traffic Management

Traffic management is the most common way of ISP’s to get out of the unlimited data problem as they are still technically offering unlimited data, albeit at a slower speed than before which artificially reduces the amount you can download in a given time. Virgin Media have been doing this for years (and so do others but I’ll pick on VM because I’m more aware of their practices).

Virgin Media employ what is called “STM” or “Subscriber Traffic Management”. This only operates between peak hours of the day (which surprisingly is 10am-9pm every day). It’s split into two so you have two limits per day. Depending on your speed you get a different allowance between these times. If you hit your STM limit, you will be traffic managed and suffer a 75% drop in download and upload speed. So instead (for example) having a 10Mbps unlimited connection, you now have a 2.5Mbps unlimited connection, which really IS unlimited now since they won’t slow you down any more.

Although Virgin Media openly give these limits out to their customers, I still feel it’s not something that should be allowed. You’re paying for a 10Mbps unlimited connection, which means you should be getting 10Mbps when you want to use it. In this day and age to watch any form of video online in HD you need more than 2.5Mbps to do it, and more when you have multiple users on the same connection (which is increasingly more common too).

The one thing I did notice with Virgin Media was with the higher speeds being introduced, more and more traffic management was being introduced – a sign that their network was simply not ready for it.

BeThere – The UK’s only truly unlimited ISP?

BeThere may well be the only
truly unlimited ISP in the UK.

Now personally I am with BeThere broadband and I have been 100% satisfied by this ISP purely for the reason that they really are unlimited. I have downloaded at 8Mbps solid for 2 weeks and not had any slow down or had a letter from them complaining about my usage. That is how an unlimited ISP should be. However with only 600,000 or so customers and little coverage compared to BT/Virgin Media, not everyone will have the privilege of going with such a great ISP.

The question is though, why do these other ISP’s limit the data allowance at all? I’ll tell you why. To save costs. Plain and simple. The only other reason to do it is if they don’t have enough bandwidth to go around and that’s what Virgin Media has been doing. They can offer 100Mbps speeds sure, but they don’t have the bandwidth to offer it to everyone ALL of the time, so they have to restrict it. It’s all about penis size with ISP’s and who has the fastest speeds. They may have the speed but they can’t deliver the actual data allowance. So there’s me with my lousy 8Mbps BeThere connection and someone else with their 10Mbps Virgin Media connection. They might have 2 more Megabits of bandwidth that me, but I can easily download more than they can because of traffic management.

Complaints to Ofcom

There have been tens of thousands of complaints to Ofcom over the years regarding this issue but all they can do is turn around with “guidelines” that the ISP’s are not even obliged to follow. It is my opinion that the word “unlimited” should not be allowed to be used in any advertising sense unless it can be proven it is unlimited.

If the ISP can’t provide the bandwidth they state on their advertisements 24/7 then they should not be allowed to sell that package as unlimited, and a GB cap should be introduced in it’s place (providing that cap can actually be reached so they don’t oversell that as well). 10Mbps is capable of 3300GB in a single month if used at full speed for 30 days so they couldn’t give a cap of 5TB if you can’t reach it. 2TB would be suitable as that would require just 6.4Mbps of bandwidth 24/7.

But anyway I think you can gather the point I’m trying to make. Hardly any ISP’s exist that are truly unlimited, and BeThere is the only one I know that stick to that policy because it’s what they’re best known for. Unlimited is a word that should be banned in the selling of broadband and phone tariffs, etc, because unlimited in these cases nearly always have a limit. The technology is becoming more popular and used more widely that these caps just don’t work any more. Jump back 5 years ago and unlimited was almost completely unheard of. Go back another 5 and nobody knew what a cap was because nobody used that much data.

Times change, and the language and meanings that come with it also needs to change to meet new expectations.

Right! Now that I have finally solved the issue on the charging here is prototype 1 of the circuit.

It uses 2 voltage dividers to give 2.0v to D- and 2.8v to D+, which allows smart(er) phones to take a high current. 1A should be allowed with this setup. If you want 500mA maximum, set D+ to 2.0v just as D- is.

Note: The smoothing capacitors have been excluded from this circuit but will be included in the final design. 470uF on the regulator input, 330uF and 100nF on the output of the regulator.

The meter is connected to the output of the regulator so it shows the current flowing to the phone.

One of my current projects is building a 5v USB regulator for charging mobile phones. I’ll be using this when away camping so myself and friends can charge their phones whenever they like at full speed. My previous solution was a cheap cigarette socket version which only supplied 1A between two sockets. This custom version will provide 1A to each socket, of which I’ll have a total of 4.

Now from the beginning I thought “this is going to be easy!”. After all it’s just a regulator, some capacitors and some resistors. I connected up a nice basic circuit with an LM7805 5v 1.5A regulator. It was solid as a rock on 5v and could easily supply 1A. 1A is more than enough to charge most phones, and my mains charger only outputs 0.7A. However, try as I might, I could not get the phone to accept a decent charge.

It would start off at 0.5A, then fall to 0.1A and often drop off completely. I was getting really frustrated. I’d tried dozens of techniques I’d found on the web for connecting the data pins with different value resistors etc. None of them worked! I even tried another phone to no avail. I thought my circuit was to blame and I wanted to know what I was doing wrong. Subsequently I hacked open my genuine blackberry charger to see what on earth was going on inside. It turns out nothing special was going on inside.

So I wasted a perfectly good blackberry charger for nothing (not that I ever used it but that’s not the point). By this point I’d spent over 8 hours trying to get this working and I even went to the trouble of posting on a forum and e-mailing a guy on youtube who I though may have the answer. He turned around and said he doesn’t answer personal project questions like that – fair comment. Being a knowledgeable guy he probably gets too many of them anyway. He told me to post on his forum so I did. It was at that point a friend of mine suggested something…

It’s the most stupid thing ever, but he suggested trying another USB cable. So I did…

Straight away I was getting 1.07A charge rate into the phone, rock solid. In 1 hour it was fully charged and didn’t flicker or fault once the whole time. I cursed like I have never cursed before because it was such a stupid thing not to check for in the first place.

I haven’t looked into why the cable I was using wasn’t working properly but it would explain why I had so many issues using it to sync to the PC. I always thought it was the phones fault but it has to have been the cable. It all makes sense now.

So what’s the moral of the story? Always check everything, even the stupid things like USB cables. You can’t easily diagnose a cable so just swap it out and rule it out as a possible cause. My guess is there is a small break in the cable causing intermittent problems, or there is a bad connection on one or more contacts. Without testing it I can’t be sure but suffice to say the cable is now deemed out of action.

My next little rant is about traffic jams and how they’re so easy to control and even prevent if you know how.

Just this morning I was on the motorway for work, and there are ongoing roadworks which have been there for close to a month now if not a little longer. Many mornings there are traffic jams where the number of lanes changes from 3 to 2 as the contraflow begins. If drivers know how to manage such a change on the road there would not be traffic jams! There is still plenty of road for all of the drivers, but it’s knowing how to use it that is important.

Picture this: You’re in the middle lane and you get signs to say the 3rd lane is closing in 800 yards and the speed limit is now 50mph. What do you do? Most drivers will take no notice until it’s too late, where they’ll employ heavy braking and try to force their way into another lane that is not closed. Not only can this be dangerous but it also causes traffic jams. The drivers behind you in both lanes have to put their brakes on too. This causes drivers behind them to panic and put their brakes on even harder, and the effect cascades all the way back through the traffic. Eventually you’re all going so slow because of forcing your way into a free lane that traffic almost grinds to a halt. Congratulations, you’ve all caused a traffic jam.

So how can you prevent it?

Picture this instead: You’re in the 3rd lane of the motorway and you see the 800 yards and 50mph sign. Pull in and slow your speed down gently to the 50mph without brakes, just use engine braking. Everyone else around you also does the same thing in plenty of time so that you’re all pulled in and doing the correct speed limit in time. No fuss! Everyone is doing the right speed. there was no panicking. That wasn’t so hard was it?

OK, so things don’t always go to plan, we all know that.

If you’re in a traffic jam, what can you do to avoid it?

It’s actually easier than you think. It all comes down to two basic rules.

1. Keep your distance – By keeping your distance, if the traffic in front has to slow down, the gap you leave makes up for this until the traffic in front picks up again which often happens quite quickly. Leave about 10 car lengths and you should always have plenty of space.

2. Let people in! – If someone wants to pull in because of a closed lane, or they simply want to change lanes, then let them! Don’t force them to slow down to make the move, help them out. That way you reduce the amount traffic behind you has to slow down and you prevent the jam becoming worse. You may not be feeling nice during a traffic jam, especially if you’re late, but it pays to help other people. And remember, being nice puts everyone in a good mood!

Why does it work?

It’s all due to the stop-start cascade effect. If one car stops, the car behind has to stop. By the time the first car is moving again, the second car can move a few seconds later. But it’s already too late, the cascade has started. If you employ point 1 (keep your distance) you can avoid starting a cascade effect but you can also stop one too. Easy! This also applies to point 2 as well but in a lesser way.

So there you go, a comprehensive guide to controlling a traffic jam. What’s better, is it only takes 1 or 2 people doing this for it to start working. If everyone did it, there would be a hell of a lot less traffic jams on the roads today. I firmly believe it should be taught and tested (somehow) as part of the driving test/exam, especially now that we are seeing more and more vehicles on the road each year.

Something must be wrong with me as I haven’t had a bit of a rant recently, so here’s one I’m sure we can all relate to.

There is an increasing amount of cars on the road nowadays that are using HID (High Intensity Discharge) lights. To me, they are the most dangerous form of vehicle lighting you can get. While they are superior in the light they give out compared to standard bulbs, they cause a ridiculous amount of glare and dazzling effects which is very disorientating and dangerous as another driver.

Here is an example of what I mean. The HID lights are on the left, with standard halogen on the right.

You can very clearly see the amount of excessive glare these HID lights give off compared to halogens. Now picture yourself on a pitch black motorway (something I frequent this time of year travelling home from work on an evening). Although you’re on the other side of the motorway the glare from the cars going the other way can be extremely overwhelming if the vehicle has HID lights. You can very easily tell the difference if you were to look.

There is no need for HID lights on any vehicle except for specialised vehicles that require brighter lights (police, coast guard, etc). Standard halogens will light the road up perfectly well for normal road driving at no more than 80mph. If you need to see further ahead of you, you’re going too fast for the type of road, it’s that simple.

I wish HID lights were made illegal except on specialised vehicles because they’re so dangerous it’s stupid. The number of times I’ve been going down the road only to be blinded by HID lights and being unable to see on my own side of the road I can’t even begin to count. They’re also very sensitive to differences in road surface because they’re highly focused so one little bump in the road and they double if not triple in brightness in your view.

There have been numerous petitions to Downing Street over the last few years but they’re always dismissed or never make it far enough. We need to get HID lights banned. There have no doubt been accidents caused by HID lights but you just don’t seem hear about them. Why, I don’t know. I have plenty of friends who share the same opinions as I do and who have had close calls because of HID lights themselves so I know I’m not alone.

You might have heard recently about the huge hike in hard drive prices, due to the temporary closure of a manufacturing plant in Thailand thanks to flooding. Well, it’s hit everyone I can see so far, from small computer shops to the big businesses and even manufacturers. Acer announced recently that they would have to increase the cost of their machines to make up for the loss.

It’s not as bad for big manufacturers like Acer than it is for consumers though. My regular supplier, ebuyer, used to sell 1TB Samsung drives for about £42, they’re now over £100. Similarly they did 2TB Samsung drives for £62, they’re now over £150. It’s been reported the price has been going up £5 a day for the last week.

I’m lucky. I didn’t anticipate this sort of drastic action but I’d already stocked up on a new 2TB drive last month, so I don’t have any storage problems at the moment and I can probably get by about 3-6 months on what I have. But what about those who don’t have space and need more? They’ll be forced to fork out obscene amounts of cash for a new drive. There is little use in waiting either, it’s reported things won’t pick up again until some time early next year, say Feb/March time and prices begin to fall again.

One of the biggest companies hit that I’m following is OVH, my hosting provider. They’re currently only receiving 10% of their requested hard drive stock, and as a result they are finding it hard to deploy new servers. They’re taking drastic action and using old drives from old stock. They’re pulling them out, running a full disk wipe and then putting them in new servers. Customers are being notified that their drives will be used but there is nothing they can do about it except stop deploying new servers. This obviously isn’t an option to such a big company that is still growing.

Some companies have been panic buying stock which has made things even worse. However this sort of behavior is to be expected – how else are companies going to survive? The fact that this plant that is no longer operating because of the floods, and that it produces around 80% of the worlds stock, makes you wonder why they centralised everything so much. It brings you back to the Japan earthquake and a lot of Sony’s production is done there as well (and not just Sony, quite a lot of other big companies too). Infrastructure centralisation is a bad thing! Why won’t anyone learn?! It doesn’t matter if it’s cloud infrastructures or manufacturing, the end result of something messed up like this is always going to be bad.

Anyway, we’ll just have to wait and see how this pans out. I feel sorry for those who are having to suffer with the ridiculous prices and count myself very lucky I have some spare drives to last me.

A recent project of mine is creating my own 5v regulators for charging mobile phones, etc. This will be incorporated into a battery box which I and my friends use when camping. However on this years trip we burnt out the 5v regulator we were using. For that reason I decided to make my own that would be more robust in comparison.

The biggest hurdle I’m hitting so far is dissipating enough heat away from the L7805 regulator (12v to 5v @ 1.5A). I am currently avoiding buying a “proper” heatsink for it as they cost in excess of £3 each. The regulator itself cost about 15p! It has been suggested by a friend that I use a “buck” style regulator instead which is significantly more efficient and does not require as much heat dissipation. This will likely be what I look at if I can’t find a suitably cheap solution to this issue. However as those themselves cost almost £3 each and require no heat sink in many cases it may be the better option.

At the moment I have been using strips of aluminium attached to the 7805 regulator along with heat paste (the same kind used on computer CPU’s). It extracts the heat just fine but the aluminium on it’s own isn’t enough to keep the temperature low. The load I am using on the regulator is just a 25w peltier chip (it’s the device that keeps portable fridges cool). However as a friend pointed out it won’t be running at 25w because of the lower voltage.

I have used 3 pieces of aluminium so far to extract the heat away and it seems to hold at a steady 90*c at 680mA, but as it’s not at full power, this is not going to be enough. I want to be able to extract at least 1A from it and still be below 90*c. A fan does aid this and keep it around 50*c but I’d prefer to omit the fan if possible.

I’m considering ordering one of the buck regulators (LM2575 by the way) for testing. However everywhere charges a fair bit for postage so I’ll wait until I need other parts too.